Santa Cruz de Tenerife – the dreamland
A city that breaks all my rules
Those who know me are well aware that I could never live in a big city. I can pop in for a day, maybe a few, but never for long. I always feel overwhelmed by the noise, the smells, the sheer number of shops with their flashing lights, loud music, and overflowing displays. The constant hum of traffic, trams, buses, and sirens—from ambulances, police or fire trucks—drives me mad.
And yet, I found a place that, despite being a big city, feels completely different. Not because it lacks all those typical urban elements. It was because they somehow fade away behind the parks, the ocean, and the pedestrian streets. I’m talking about Santa Cruz, on the island of Tenerife.
Where mountains meet the sea
What enchanted me most about this city was the coexistence of mountains and the ocean. I sat on a bench facing the waves, and just to my left stretched a vast mountainous landscape. I was in a bustling capital, yet it didn’t feel like it at all. There was only the sound of the sea around me, the wind in my hair, and greenery everywhere I looked.
Green oases in the heart of the city
When I got a little bored of staring at the ocean, I wandered deeper into the urban rhythm and found myself in a huge park. Once again, the outside noise seemed to disappear. I sat beneath the shade of palm trees and marveled at the diversity of plant life. The sweet scent of frangipani drifted around me as its flowers gently fell onto the pavement.
People of all ages strolled by, many with dogs happily greeting one another. I was soaking in this peaceful moment when a sweet older gentleman with a labrador came over and struck up a conversation. He was curious—where I was from, what I was doing here, how I ended up in this place. And I was happy to share.
A taste of Tenerife
Hunger only became a problem because of the overwhelming number of food options—not the lack of them. Sure, you could try cuisine from all over the world here. However I always find myself gravitating toward small, cozy eateries—tasca style. There I can enjoy mouthwatering papas arrugadas with mojo rojo and mojo verde, or heavenly grilled goat cheese (queso asado). Honestly, I don’t need anything more. Well, maybe the sardines too—they’re amazing!
I’ve got a few go-to spots I’d gladly recommend for lunch or dinner.
Leche y leche – coffee with soul
This time around, I almost left Tenerife without remembering to have the most delicious coffee under the sun. Ironically, I never sweeten my coffee—but leche y leche? Pure poetry.
There are plenty of places to enjoy. But for me, nothing beat sipping it at a café right next to the lush Parque García Sanabria.
Rooftops, pools, and sunsets
In the evening—or just before sunset—it’s worth finding a rooftop bar or a terrace on one of the upper floors. The views over the city, the mountains, and the ocean are simply breathtaking.
There are even spots where you can swim in a glass-bottom pool. You can sip a drink inside a crocodile… or a frog. That, too, was quite the experience.
Auditorio – the beating heart of the city
The place that moved me most this time around was Auditorio de Tenerife. Its architecture took my breath away from the outside alone—let alone the interior. And yes, you can also sit here, face the ocean, and sip something lovely in great company.
A place that soothes the soul
All of this made me forget I was in a big city. I felt no pressure, no overstimulation—just options for quiet and grounding whenever I needed them. Even wandering through the city center wasn’t so bad.
If I ever had to leave my small town behind, Santa Cruz de Tenerife would be at the top of my list.
The fact that I’ve returned here for the second time—completely by choice—says a lot.