Euskadi – Land of Txakoli and Cider
The Green Side of Spain
Did you know there’s a part of Spain (not the Canary Islands!) that’s lush, green, and mountainous? And what if I told you it’s still relatively untouched by mass tourism? The entire region feels raw and unspoiled. Intense greenery stretches in every direction, blending beautifully with the blue sky and the waters of the Bay of Biscay. Even when temperatures rise above 30°C, it still feels pleasantly fresh.
Euskadi is the Basque word for the Basque Country – and this is where I spent a week filled with wonder.
Seeing Through Local Eyes
Two things struck me the moment I left the airport. First, the scenery looked a lot like my homeland. However, there was one breathtaking twist: the vast Bay of Biscay shimmering in the distance. Second, the food – or more precisely, the first stop. It was in a charming village called Galdames. We stayed there for a glass of local txakoli (a lightly sparkling, dry white wine) and pintxos (Basque-style tapas). My first bite was a slice of bread topped with olives, pickled peppers, and fish, all skewered together and drizzled with olive oil. At first, the heat from the peppers surprised me – but what followed was a true explosion of flavor. So simple, yet so powerful. Heaven on the palate!
By the Water’s Edge
I visited the coast twice during my stay, but the first time left the strongest impression. In the region of Zierbena, there’s a beach called La Arena. It is reached by a path through a protected natural area – which makes the arrival feel almost magical. Imagine standing at the base of a lush green hill, following wooden walkways upward. Finally you reach the top to see dark sand stretching toward the horizon. A true place of power for me.
The second coastal stop was in the district of Neguri, within the Getxo region. It had a different energy – more people, a long promenade lined with cafés, a bit more hustle and bustle. Still charming, just not as soulful.
Bilbao – Where Art Meets Life
One of the highlights of the trip was Bilbao itself – both the historic quarter and the modern city. I got to see the city come alive in the evenings. There were open-air concerts, food stalls lined up in a row, groups of people gathering to enjoy time together.
I attended a jazz concert right outside the Guggenheim Museum – a shining icon of contemporary art in Spain. The building itself glows in the sunlight, thanks to its titanium and glass structure. When I saw it from the Nervion River, it resembles a giant ship. Another magical detail? A 13-meter-tall puppy sculpture made entirely of living flowers. Absolutely delightful.
Not far from the museum, I discovered a rooftop terrace at a nearby hotel. Watching the sun set over the city and the lights flicker to life was unforgettable. It was there I tried my first gin and tonic – and fell in love. Since then, I’ve made it a mission to seek out rooftop bars wherever I go.
Winding Alleys and Historic Charms
The old town of Bilbao had its own unique charm: cobbled, narrow streets packed with pintxos bars. There are beautiful landmarks like the theatre, cathedral, market hall, and train station. I was also intrigued by the metro entrance tucked beneath the archaeology museum – an unexpected architectural gem.
One place that completely stole my heart was Café Iruña – one of the city’s oldest cafés, filled with Andalusian flair. It’s also where I tasted the so-called “Bilbao water” – a glass of cava, sparkling and celebratory.
Hidden Villages and Rolling Hills
Throughout the week, I explored several picturesque towns and villages: Galdakao, Zalla, Balmaseda, Güeñes, San Pedro, San Esteban, and La Baluga. I was constantly in awe of the vibrant forests, the rolling green hills, and the way homes nestled either in valleys or atop peaks. The architecture stood out too – so different from what I know in Poland, or even in other parts of Spain.
Each village had its own version of txakoli and pintxos. The taste of fresh bread, olives, fish, and olive oil – pure and intense – was unlike anything I’ve ever had at home. My taste buds were in awe with every bite.
A Love Letter to Euskadi
To sum it up: the Basque Country is a hidden gem. And maybe that’s a good thing. I got to stay in a quiet house on the outskirts, waking up to birdsong. I strolled peaceful streets, visited sleepy villages, and went on a delicious journey through Basque flavors, wines, and ciders.
The landscape is nothing like the typical image of Spain – and that’s exactly why it’s worth seeing. If I had to name one challenge, it would be the language. Basque is everywhere, and as someone fascinated by languages, I found it almost impossible to crack. For now, at least.
